{"id":397,"date":"2021-11-26T21:28:00","date_gmt":"2021-11-26T20:28:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pgraber.org\/blog\/?p=397"},"modified":"2021-12-13T23:09:11","modified_gmt":"2021-12-13T22:09:11","slug":"retour-a-lorigine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pgraber.org\/blog\/retour-a-lorigine\/","title":{"rendered":"Retour \u00e0 l’Origine…"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Jeudi en fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, avant de me rendre au Z\u00e9nith, je me suis demand\u00e9 ce qu\u2019\u00e9tait devenu un monument de la gastronomie dijonnaise, qui avait contribu\u00e9 \u00e0 mon initiation\u202f: le restaurant de Jean-Paul Thibert.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l\u2019aube des ann\u00e9es\u00a01990, ma femme et moi sommes tomb\u00e9s sous le charme de la finesse et de la cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 du chef, plaisamment mise en valeur par les conseils avis\u00e9s du sommelier. Je me souviens de la d\u00e9couverte d\u2019un Coteau de l\u2019Aubance qui nous a \u00e9t\u00e9 propos\u00e9 pour accompagner le dessert\u2026 et dont le sommelier est all\u00e9 d\u00e9coller l\u2019\u00e9tiquette pour nous la remettre \u00e0 notre d\u00e9part\u202f!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019ai ainsi appris que le couple Thibert* a remis son restaurant en 2001 \u00e0 St\u00e9phane Derbord qui a offici\u00e9 dans ces lieux jusqu\u2019\u00e0 fin\u00a02019. Depuis, le restaurant de la Place Wilson est tenu par Tomofumi Uchimura sous l\u2019enseigne Restaurant Origine<\/a><\/strong>, pas de chance pour le timing<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/
Entr\u00e9e du restaurant Origine \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de l’H\u00f4tel Wilson<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Je d\u00e9couvre in extremis<\/em> que l\u2019Origine propose un menu Surprise \u00e0 35\u00a0\u20ac du mardi au vendredi \u00e0 midi. Et j\u2019ai la chance d\u2019obtenir un couvert pour vendredi\u202f!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

* Jean-Paul Thibert a ouvert son restaurant en 1985. Cl\u00e9 d\u2019Or Gault et Millau en 1987, il a aussi obtenu une \u00e9toile au Michelin en 1988\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Vendredi, avant d\u2019entamer la route de retour, je prends donc le chemin de la Place Wilson.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019accueil y est s\u00e9rieux (Pass sanitaire) et parfaitement professionnel, \u00e0 la hauteur d\u2019un tel \u00e9tablissement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Avant m\u00eame le choix du menu, on me remet un petit verre de tisane aux ingr\u00e9dients id\u00e9alement dos\u00e9s rehauss\u00e9e d\u2019une fine mouture de poivre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Infusion (photo du site Instagram<\/a> du restaurant)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On est vendredi et je me doute que le menu Surprise fera la part belle au poisson. Je ne suis pas d\u00e9\u00e7u (doux euph\u00e9misme pour d\u00e9signer une cuisine inventive, aux accords parfaits, variant couleurs, saveurs et textures).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

H\u00e9las, contrairement au jeune couple de la table voisine, je n\u2019ai pas le r\u00e9flexe de prendre note de la composition des divers \u00e9l\u00e9ments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour accompagner le repas, le jeune sommelier me propose un verre de Saint-Aubin 1er cru et un autre (demi) de Banyuls Grand Cru\u00a007\u202f! Des accords parfaits\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Restaurant Origine, l’\u00e9quipe en juin 2021 (photo de Facebook<\/a>)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En r\u00e9sum\u00e9, la pand\u00e9mie ayant suspendu (ou ralenti) la reconnaissance de la valeur du restaurant par les guides, j\u2019ai eu beaucoup de chance de profiter de cette qualit\u00e9 \u00e0 moindre prix\u202f!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 ma connaissance, le chef Uchimura n\u2019a jamais travaill\u00e9 avec Jean-Paul Thibert, mais il y a une parent\u00e9 \u00e9vidente et j\u2019y vois un clin d\u2019\u0153il \u00e0 avoir nomm\u00e9 le restaurant Origine, comme un retour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Jean-Paul et Maryse Thibert en visite au restaurant Origine en \u00e9t\u00e9 2021 (Instagram<\/a>)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jeudi en fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, avant de me rendre au Z\u00e9nith, je me suis demand\u00e9 ce qu\u2019\u00e9tait devenu un monument de la gastronomie dijonnaise, qui avait contribu\u00e9 \u00e0 mon initiation\u202f: le restaurant de Jean-Paul Thibert. \u00c0 l\u2019aube des ann\u00e9es\u00a01990, ma femme et moi sommes tomb\u00e9s sous le charme de la finesse et de la cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 duLire la suite →<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22,2,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-397","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-france-voyage","category-futilites","category-voyage","no-thumb"],"yoast_head":"\nRetour \u00e0 l'Origine... – Blog-notes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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